The lump is out of my '72

[Craig]

I got it out and found that one of the inner pot joints was almost pulled halfway out of the diff.
The head is a 12G940 and has ported and polished (sort of) intakes.  I'm not sure about the exhaust ports as the thing was running rich for so long that they are truely black.  #4 exhaust valve guide was leaking badly and there was a bit of oil sitting on top of the piston.  The pistons are dished, not flat tops.  No visible scoring on the cylinder walls and no ridge at the top from the rings.  The bores all measure 2.808 inches and the stroke is 3.015 or so.  Not really sure about the stroke as it's hard to measure using a set of vernier calipers and get it right.

Anyway, I'll take the engine off of the gearbox soon and pull the rotating assembly to see how it is and let you all know too.

L8r

[Thorty]

Must be nice to have the extra room in the Garage.
-Shawn

[Craig]

You have no idea how much I like being able to walk around the whole car without having to move half the garage out on the driveway.  It's great!

[Craig]

So, I've been going back and forth about doing the Beemer twin cam conversion and just doing a 1340 with a single carb and maybe a new exhaust.  Either way, I'm going to drop the front subframe and clean up the mess in the engine bay.  And, of course, I have the disc breaks to install too; they should be much easier to do with the front subbie out.  So, the debate continues in my head.  I would really like the bling of the twin cam, but the cost is about $4000 more than the 1340 and I'm a bit worried about the whole package and me putting it together.  I've done a few stock rebuilds on various engines and a couple of gearboxes, including one magic wand, but this is a major alteration.

Just thinking while typing here, nothing important.

[Thorty]

I thought you already had the bmw head. Well if you don't have the head yet, I would stick to what you know. If you do already have the head then go for it. If you already have the head and are not going to use it I want to. Just typing here. LOL.

[tmsmith]

There seems to be a good bit of support, although most of it on the other side of the pond.

Same with A series Megasquirt, a few in Canada and then most in the UK. That is why I am taking it in stages. Actually the last month I have done nothing as I am still deciding about mega jolt or megasquirt.

[patpwu]

All this talk about engine rebuilds makes me want to do mine, but after talking about it for 5 years and not doing it... I'm starting to think that I'm never gonna get to it.

I do have a brand new set of pistons for a 1380 and oil pick up sitting there just begging to be used.  When is it gonna happen?

Pat

[Kevin R. Walsh]

Having rebuilt my 1380 down to the short-block and back up, I would estimate that you're in for about 4 more months of work than you think you are.  I think I estimated it would be 2 months, and it was more like six.  Also, when you pull it apart, you have to realize that you are also going to spend a lot more money than you might think.  I mean, why put that old crappy flywheel back on when a 10# flywheel is less than $350?  And you have it apart, so of course you'll put a new clutch in it.  You're ordering ARP head studs, so why not spring for those stainless steel intake and exhaust studs too?  See what I mean?  All of a sudden take it apart and put it back together takes you six months and $2k more than you planned.  Because, who in their right mind would have it that far apart and NOT do that extra stuff?

If you want a car to drive on weekends when it is nice out, get the overbore and a Weber.  If you want a project for the garage, the BMW head will make an excellent project.

If anyone needs an engine stand modified for an A-series block, let me know.  Mine is just sitting collecting dust.  I'll need it eventually to rebuild my Sprite motor, meanwhile it can collect dust in YOUR garage!  Looks like the picture below, minus the 1380 hanging on it.  Basically it holds the engine sideways by the alternator mount.

[Craig]

You're absolutely right Kevin, it always costs more and takes longer than I think it'll take.  Luckily, I've already got the lightened flywheel and such to go back in where they were when I tore it down.  I talked with the guys at Clark's in Cupertino and found that they rebuilt a Mini unit just last year for someone out there in the SCV.  Who was it???  Seems that there are quite a few Mini owners around the bay that aren't in the club.  That makes me feel a bit better about getting the work done locally.  I was not looking forward to attempting a six hour round trip to 7 every time I wanted to talk with the machine shop.

Anyway, after being stuck in my head for 24 hours I'm in for it and will be doing the twin cam mods.

Thanks for the offer of using your engine stand.  I set mine up like that for the last build I did on a Mini in '96; at least I think it was '96.  (Hey Dr. Dave, when did you sell me that fine example of rusted Mini that ran like H. E. double hockey sticks?  and how about them Sharks?)  I had mine attached to three of the threaded holes on the side of the block after I took the oil filter adapter off.  It worked fine while I spent a couple of weekends chipping YELLOW epoxy paint off the block.  I then painted it a proper Austin green.

Pictures to come soon... 

[Thorty]

Kevin,
I have an engine stand but I have to make an adapter. Could you post some pics of the adapter? I have a couple of lumps I want to disassemble. Thanks in advance. -Shawn

[Kevin R. Walsh]

Shawn-

It is pretty simple.  Take the standard engine mount which has a rectangular plate.  A Zip Wheel on a 4 1/2" angle-grinder will take it down to a little tab.  You want the tab as small as possible, but big enough to put the two bolts in that hold the alternator bracket.  Like this picture from Seven:


This one uses two different holes than I used, but same idea.  I used the two bosses arranged vertically just above the ones they bolted to.  From the looks of it, they used the oil filter mount holes. 

[Craig]

And I used the two vertical holes and one of the oil filter adapter holes for my set up.  No need to reshape my engine stand bracket as it has large slots that run nearly perpendicular to each other.  Long bolts with a few washers stepped it out for clearance between the bracket and the block.

Unfortunately, that was before relatively cheap digital cameras and I have no pics.  Right now it is bolted to the rear end of the block creatively, but when I get to the assembly I'll switch to the side again and take a few photos.

[tmsmith]

I have an adapter someone can borrow if needed.

Terry
And an engine stand as well, but I have never used the two together.

[eightbitguy]

I spoke to Jack about a week ago about the engine stand!  I just bought a cheap Harbor Freight one and was wondering how to mount the engine!  I can't remember the bolt size but Jack said they use the oil filter bolts because they are bigger than the others.  I am looking at the fuel pump bolts as my engine doesn't use them and it is covered.  The vertical arrangement of the bolts, like on the alternator seems more stable but I have no idea as I haven't done this yet!  I guess three non-colinear bolts would offer the most stability but that's only in an ideal engineering force diagram!

Atsushi

[Thorty]

Terry,
I would love to borrow yours to make a copy. Now I just have to figure out how to get it. Maybe next meeting we can play with your ecu reader on the MPI as well? I reinstalled the ICE chip and it's running well but I would love to know the #'s. I'll be in touch. -Shawn

Craig- Twin Cam, Twin Cam, Twin Cam, Twin Cam etc.!!!!!!!!